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Old 11-15-2010, 08:35 PM
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Hand shaping Evil-M

I've decided to try this one myself. Got the blank body and started at it with a hacksaw and files. So far, so good. I kind of want to do it all without power tools, but we'll see how that goes. I'm thinking I'll need to when I start getting around the eyes and such. Not really trying to get anything fancy, just a simple lightweight body. I'll keep posting up new pictures as it comes slowly along, but here's what I've got so far...





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Old 12-10-2010, 08:03 AM
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Figured I'd update this. Started in on the sanding and polishing this week. Driver's side is almost done.





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Old 12-10-2010, 09:04 AM
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Looking good. Do you have to get special internals to do an evil m or can you just use Viking internals?
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Old 12-10-2010, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by CatoRockwell View Post
Looking good. Do you have to get special internals to do an evil m or can you just use Viking internals?
Thanks. You can use a standard Viking Tornado valve and '04 Ram cartridge. The LPR is custom (I went to Jared ). I think you can use a Cyborg LPR too, but it has to be modified. The solenoid is different from the standard Viking noid. The Vike's lays flat, this one is vertical. You will also have to get a different frame. I'm going to be using a frame from an FEP Quest.


Here's the thread on them on PBN:

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3340155

I've got a noid coming in and I'm looking for the ram and valve now. Hopefully it will be at least functioning by the spring.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:30 PM

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Any blisters on the hands? I wish i could sculpt something but they usually end up in the trash.lol

Looking good though
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:54 PM
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Any blisters on the hands? I wish i could sculpt something but they usually end up in the trash.lol

Looking good though
No blisters, but I'm starting to get pains and tight muscles in my hands. I decided to forego the no power tools route. I wouldn't be anywhere close to this if I hadn't I used a power drill and different size bits to eat away at different areas. I then used a grinder in some areas (mainly the sides) to take off a bit more meat a little faster. I then found some better bits for the drill. I'm now working with a combination of hand sanding and a Dremel Might-Max (multi-tool type) with the sanding attachment. I'm using the Dremel to shape things up and get rid of some of the deeper gouges left by some of the other tools, then I'm going over it by hand with some higher grit sponge paper to smooth it out and give it shine.

I got a vert asa for it yesterday and worked on the frame milling out the T slot for the front screw. Everything done with a power drill and files. I also got a couple of noids in today. Hoping to have things up and running for testing in the next few weeks.



EDIT...Took some more this morning in the light



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Old 12-16-2010, 07:53 AM
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I'm liking the Quest Frame. Looking good. What electronics are you looking to use? Also, what are you planning to do for eye covers? The area around the eyes is the main reason I am leaning away from shaping one myself. Can't wait to see the finished product. Nice work!!
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:30 AM
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I'm liking the Quest Frame. Looking good. What electronics are you looking to use? Also, what are you planning to do for eye covers? The area around the eyes is the main reason I am leaning away from shaping one myself. Can't wait to see the finished product. Nice work!!
Thank you. I'm going to be using the Quest board. I'm trying to find eyes that will work right now. I just made an eye cover last night out of some 1/8" aluminum. Very rough right now, but I think it will work.
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Old 12-16-2010, 09:47 AM
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Thank you. I'm going to be using the Quest board. I'm trying to find eyes that will work right now. I just made an eye cover last night out of some 1/8" aluminum. Very rough right now, but I think it will work.
So to connect the Noid to the board, what adjustments will you need to make? Is there a specific harness? I was contemplating picking up a cheap Quest and canabalizing it. Especially since I don't have any electronics yet except the noid (On it's way).

Thanks, oh, and if you get a chance, can you post close ups of the T Slot that you did. I am curious to see how that was done. The ASA does a good job of hiding that whole area!
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Old 12-16-2010, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Stayhuge View Post
So to connect the Noid to the board, what adjustments will you need to make? Is there a specific harness? I was contemplating picking up a cheap Quest and canabalizing it. Especially since I don't have any electronics yet except the noid (On it's way).

Thanks, oh, and if you get a chance, can you post close ups of the T Slot that you did. I am curious to see how that was done. The ASA does a good job of hiding that whole area!
I'll take a picture of the T slot when I get home today. The wiring for the noid to the board is just a two pin molnex connector. The way the Quest wiring works is there is a "Y" connection. The battery connects to one side and the noid connect to the other. That then goes to a 4-pin connection that goes to the board.

I found my Quest for super cheap. The guy said it was broken. All it needed was a TINY o-ring in the vert asa to seal the LPR properly. I played with the Quest a couple of weeks ago, and I have to say, if I wasn't tearing it apart, I'd keep it and play with it. It's a great little gun.
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:25 PM
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Trevor, I give you props for doing that shiz by hand! Looking good for sure! - Eric
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To be honest I do want it, but I would have to shower after I use it.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:50 PM
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Here's some video of how I did the Quest Frame.

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Old 12-17-2010, 07:22 PM
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*post in the other thread..

Last edited by MorueM : 12-17-2010 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:38 PM

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I can not wait to see it running
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Old 01-08-2011, 10:24 PM
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So, I borrowed a Dremel from my dad and went to work on the M. I know, I know, Dremel is a 4-letter word to machinists, but I seem to be doing okay with it. This is just the VERY rough cutting without any sanding yet. I'm still going to work on cleaning it up here and there. And don't worry, the set screw on the side is just longer than normal and sticks out of the body, I didn't take off too much metal there. Here's what I've got so far on the driver's side...










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Old 01-09-2011, 08:33 AM

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Looking good. Just remember you can not add material and knowing when to stop has always been my failure on projects like this.
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:22 PM
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To be honest I do want it, but I would have to shower after I use it.
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:11 AM
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A little more work done on the passenger side.









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Old 01-12-2011, 11:16 AM
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Wow, that smoothed out real nice. Great Job!! So you only really used a file, some sand paper and I assume a hacksaw for some of the larger items?

I started working on mine. I cut the back section of the top tube so far. Left a little meat to be safe. I will have to take pics of the progress as mine goes forward. Good luck and can't wait to see this whole thing done!!
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Stayhuge View Post
Wow, that smoothed out real nice. Great Job!! So you only really used a file, some sand paper and I assume a hacksaw for some of the larger items?

I started working on mine. I cut the back section of the top tube so far. Left a little meat to be safe. I will have to take pics of the progress as mine goes forward. Good luck and can't wait to see this whole thing done!!
No, I went ahead with power tools after a little bit. There were things I just couldn't get done with only files and sandpaper. I suppose I could have, but it would have taken A LOT longer. I hit it with a grinder, hand drill and sander, but most of the more detailed work, especially on the bottom tube and around the eye/detent area has been done with a Dremel.
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